Safety first
Before you touch the pad
Three things to do, whatever is wrong.
Pump off at the breaker
Not the timer, the breaker. Water and power share this pad.
Smell gas near the heater?
Leave the area, call the gas utility, then call us. Do not switch anything on or off.
Never open a filter under pressure
Turn the pump off and open the air relief first. A clamp can let go.
The pad, part by part
Five parts, one loop
Water leaves the pool, runs through the pad and goes back. A failure at one part shows up at the next.
- 01In the photo
Pump
Under the valves, behind the pipes at center. It pulls water from the skimmer and main drain and pushes it on.
Grinding or squealing
Air bubbles under the clear lid
A drip where the motor meets the wet end
Won't prime
- 02In the photo
Filter
The grey tank on the left. It catches what the pump pulls in before the water goes back.
Pressure climbs faster than it used to
A weep at the clamp or drain
Debris blowing back into the pool
A cracked lid or housing
- 03Not pictured
Heater
Next in line after the filter, and not in this photo. It warms the water on its way back to the pool.
Won't fire, or shuts off
Water leaks at the unions
The water never warms: check the bypass and flow
Smell gas? Leave, call the gas utility, then us
- 04In the photo
Valves
The black valves and white pipes on the right. They send water to the pool, the spa, the cleaner or a fountain.
Handles stuck or stripped
Weeping at the stem or a glued joint
An actuator that won't turn
Water going to the wrong place
- 05Not pictured
Lines and autofill
Under the deck and out of sight. The pipes between the pool and the pad, and the valve that keeps the water level.
The water level creeps down between fills
A wet patch near the pad or the deck
Autofill runs without stopping
Pressure drops when the pump starts
What to expect
A pad visit, start to finish
- 01
You send photos
The pad, the gauge and anything that drips. Text or the form.
- 02
We read the loop
A technician checks pressure, flow and every joint, in the order the water travels.
- 03
You get the number
A written price, by text, before any work starts. Nothing begins without your yes.
- 04
We fix it and label it
Valves are labeled and the pad is photographed when we leave.
Through the year
A pool year in Mesa
Step 1: June to September
The pump runs longest and evaporation is highest. Watch the water level and the autofill. After a monsoon power flicker, check that the pump primes again.
Step 2: October and November
Before the cool nights, have the heater's water side checked: unions, bypass and flow.
Step 3: December to February
A rare freeze can crack exposed pipes at the pad. Wrap them, and know where your shutoffs are.
Step 4: March to May
Swim season is coming. A spring look at valves and the filter pressure saves a summer breakdown.
Pad questions
Should I repair or replace an old pump?
If the motor is sound and the leak is a seal, a repair often makes sense. If the bearings are worn or the pump is the wrong size for the pad, we will say so and show you why.
Can you label my valves?
Yes, on any visit to the pad. You get a photo of the labeled pad for your phone.
Do you pull permits?
When the work needs one, we pull it and say so on the estimate.
What if the problem is the electrical?
We will tell you, shut things down safely and refer a licensed electrician. We do not wire the pump or controller.
Not sure which part is which?
Send a photo and we will mark it up and call you back.